| Welcome to the Performance Mods page!
You will find 1994-2008 Ford V6 Mustang 3.8/3.9/4.0L Engine, Auto and Manual Transmission, Drivetrain, Exhaust, Fuel System, Cold Air Intake, Performance Chassis and Suspension, Tire/Wheel modifications, vehicle upgrade articles and information are available here.Check out our customer's rides, super V6 Stangs from around the country. Ah... the performance stuff! This is the area where we provide information on performance modifications, technical data, installation hints and other useful Ford V6 Mustang information for the SN-95, 1994-2004 year group. For example, did you know that Ford built over 1.6 million Mustangs from 1994-2004 and of those built just over half were V6 equipped. I'll bet you did not know that, Wow! Data, specifications, performance numbers, etc. that I post are derived from Ford Shop Service manuals, Ford Motor Company data sources, SEMA Data Transfer Program sources and individually verified internet sources. I won’t post it if I can’t verify it with two other independent sources. If you believe I may be in error, please feel free to contact me and I will re-evaluate the data in question. “Love your site. Tons of information and tips. I check it often. Excellent Price, Shipping and Customer Service." Joe Buege, Rogers, Minnesota If you are new to the world of Hot Roding or vehicle modifications/upgrades, take a deep breath and do not be afraid. You can eat an elephant... you just can't do it in one sitting. So too... you can complete modifications and upgrades to your Mustang, you just need to start and nibble away at it as time and money allows. By starting I mean, gather information from us and any other source that you like (I encourage comparisons), and develop a plan. You will find helpful information throughout our website for developing that plan. Linda and I started with a "bone stock" 1997 V6 Mustang Coupe and have never looked back. Start small if you like, swap out your stock door lock pins with a pair of billet parts. There you go... you've just completed a Mod! Try something as easy as removing the snorkel on the stock air filter housing. This simple upgrade will yield about 0.5Hp increase and you will learn something about your ride and you did it! Congratulations you have just entered the world of Hot Roding! But Chip, where do I start, what should I do first? If improved engine performance is your thing, start with the easy stuff first. Cold Air Induction(CAI) kit, 25% Under Drive Pulley(UDP) kit, Large Bore Throttle body, Headers, Dual Exhaust, etc. If your happy with the motor then move on to the suspension and wheels (my personal favorite area) and then the Body & Interior. While a lot of folks would not include this under the category of an "Engine Mod", I will because the V6 Coupes need this for improved acceleration... 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 ring & pinion gears coupled with a 7.5" Trak-Lok differential. The standing start improvement is simply amazing. Above all, have fun and enjoy the ride. If you need more information, please contact us at...Questions. It will be just between us. Planning Your V6 Mustang Project... or Where The Heck Should I Start? Need some hints on finding a speed shop, auto repair shop or exhaust fabricator in your area? There are several ways to accomplish this: specialized work. Auto Parts & Supplies, Auto Racing or Sports Car Equipment. that can do the work for you or refer you to someone who can. of local talent welding! 
Completed Mods on Lazer Red. Our 1997 3.8L V6 Mustang "Road Warrior".
These articles are not intended to be step by step installation guides, rather they are intended to give you a basic walk through of the project, do's and don'ts and fill in some of the gaps in the manufacturer's instructions, when needed. This sharp looking Mustang is our daily driver and shown on weekends at regional car shows and cruises. Please Note: Some of these articles take a while to load if you are using a dial up service. Scroll down to see Lazer Red 2000. The newest member to our V6 Mustang corral.
Here it is. The dyno run data for the above installed engine/fuel modifications: MAC CAI, Steeda 25% UDP, Granatelli 155lph fuel pump & the BBK Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. Location: SPEEDTEK Performance, Haltom City, Texas. Date: February 9th, 2006 @ 10:25 AM. Conditions: 570 F, Barometer 29.81 Hg", Humidity 9%. RPM Range: 2800-4150. Results: 124.14 RWHP @ 190.19 ft/lbs of torque. Notes: Air/Fuel Ratio was a solid 13:1 over the entire RPM range of the test. Fuel pressure set at 39psi. Torque peak was @ 3000 RPM, with the HP peak @ 4000 RPM. Completed Mods (cont.)
Here it is. The dyno run data for the following modification: Pacesetter H-Pipe Adapter, MAC 2.5" Cat Back Dual Exhaust. Location: SPEEDTEK Performance, Haltom City, Texas. Date: December 5th, 2006 @ 11:17 AM. Conditions: 580 F, Barometer 29.90 Hg", Humidity 7%. RPM Range: 2800-4150. Results: 131.89 RWHP @ 192.40 ft/lbs of torque. Notes: Air/Fuel Ratio ranged from 14:1 @2800 RPM to 13.5:1 @4150 RPM during the test. Fuel pressure set at 43psi. Torque peak was @ 3250 RPM, with the HP peak @ 4000 RPM. So what have we gained from this particular mod? Although it may not look like a very large increase in horsepower and torque, which it isn’t, there are some mitigating factors to consider. To start with, most dual exhaust systems claim an 8-20 Hp increase, this is dependant on the engines potential to flow a hot compressed gas. A 1994-1998 3.8L V6 has less potential than a 1999-2004 3.8/3.9L V6. This is due mostly to the dual port intake on the later model SN-95 vehicles. Additionally, a 4.6L 2V has less gas flow potential than a 4.6L 4V engine. So the gain potential is dependant on hot gas flow, early model 3.8L low end of potential with 4.6L 4V at the top end of potential. So I'm ok with the 7.75 Hp gain. It could have been slightly better if I had the time to tweak the air/fuel ratio while on the dyno, it was running slightly rich. Another mitigating factor is engine wear. This particular motor has 132,318 miles on it with zero internal work, i.e. original pistons, rings no intake or exhaust valve work completed. Again I'm ok with this; the motor probably could use some sprucing up internally. With routine maintenance over its lifetime, the motor has been running great and will be significantly upgraded with new forged pistons, high performance rods, hi-flow heads, 24-30 lbs fuel injectors, high performance coil pak, etc. You get the idea. With the dual exhaust installed you will now be able to benefit from the full potential of future mods on the engine. Owners of 1999-2004 3.8/3.9L engines will see a greater horsepower increase. Overall I am very satisfied with the results and you will be too! OBTW, the exhaust sounded awesome on the dyno, very proud of Lazer Red. base line data for an installation article. The 2006 4.0L V6 is rated at 210 Hp and 240 lbs-ft of torque (SEA flywheel ratings). On the dyno: 173.18 Hp and 185.62 lbs-ft of torque (SAE RWHP). There are two things that can be learned from this: First, the 2006 automatic transmission has a parasitic loss of nearly 37 Hp & 55 lbs-ft of torque! Secondly, our 1997 3.8L V6 is 42 RWHP away from catching up with the 2006 4.0L V6! This is very "do-able" with high flow cylinder heads or a split port intake manifold, for example. 
I had a chance, not too long ago, to drive the pavement at Texas Motor Speedway in a NASCAR Nextel Cup series car, Team Texas High Performance Driving School holds classes at the track for race geeks like me. My instructor Barry was very helpful on giving me tips and hints on corner entry points, exit speed and handling of a race car at speed. He was also very brave, he had to be to get in the car with me! By the way, the cars they use for the class are de-tuned (much like the Busch series cars have less power than the Nextel Cup cars) to prevent the students from killing their instructors. It was awesome and I can't wait to hit the track again for some more seat time. OBTW, I'm not fat, it's the fluffy fire suits they give us for the class... really! Welcome to the Shop. Organization is essential! If you really want to learn about your Mustang, perform routine(and not so routine) maintenance on your own, then do yourself a favor and spend the money to purchase a Ford Service Manual. They might seem a little expensive, but you will save thousands of $$$ and learn so much more about your favorite V6 Mustang. I purchased my service manual from California Mustang.com in 1999 for about $149.00 and it was well worth it. Year One.com also offers the Ford Service Manuals for sale at their online store. Get one now! You will never regret it. 
Put your highly valuable and prized service manual in a sturdy 3-ring binder available at Office Depot, Office Max, etc. Notice the State of Texas shaped sticker on the upper right hand corner of the binder cover. That's the North Texas Mustang Club logo. Find out more about joining a local Mustang club in the next segment below. There it is, the entrance to Mustang knowledge. Don't be afraid to mark up your service manual pages. Post-its' are cool. Factory Ford Service Manuals are also available from Helm Publications, 1-800-782-4356 Tool Loan Programs... Most national auto parts stores offer some sort of tool loan program. O'Reilly, Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc. offer free use of specialized auto repair tools and all that is required of you is that a deposit is made for the replacement cost of the tool and return of the tool, in good repair, after you're done with the project. Your deposit is refunded and you go home happy. Check it out at your local auto parts retailer. Join a local Mustang Club... Joining my local Mustang club was one of the best things I have ever done in pursuit of more knowledge and just the shear enjoyment of meeting other people with same interests that I have with regard to all things Mustang. Clubs give you the opportunity to see what others are doing to their cars, it allows you the opportunity to show off your ride to the other Bubbas and if you decide to step up to the next level... show your car at an event. Check out these two great Mustang club websites… the Mustang Club Center is a nation wide club locator that is easy to use and resourceful. The Mustang Club of America (MCA)is the preeminent national organization with regard to all things Mustang. DUGAN Racing MUSTANG Bible 3... In addition to the Ford Service Manual you are about to purchase, log onto DUGANRacing and get a copy of the MUSTANG Bible 3. I purchased the MUSTANG Bible II in 2001/2002, it is a great reference for a wide variety of upgrades to your Stang. They even have some V6 stuff between the covers. Get one, mine cost $5.95 + S&H. Well worth it. 
This is the Actron Code Reader (as shown on the left).
Capable of reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), this little unit is available for "rent" at most major auto parts stores. On screen instructions guide you through the process. 
This photo on the left shows the location of the ODB II interface (connecter) near the drivers right leg. This is also the same connecter used by the SCT, DiabloSport, Super Chips Flash tuners, etc. Check out these links for more detailed information on OBDII technology, definitions and how this stuff applies to your particular year and model of Mustang. OBD II Codes Actron OBD II Code Scanner and OBD II FAQs OBDII .com Dedicated to helping the home and independent technician understand and use OBD-II technology. A comprehensive list of OBD-II Acronyms and Jargon, here is a start to untangling those codes used in tech articles. Here is something you might consider as a first performance mod for your favorite 1996-2004 3.8/3.9L V6 Mustang... A FLASH TUNER! That's right, a flash tuner. Why; because the 1994-2004 Mustangs were the first generation to lean heavily on the use of a computer to control a wide variety of vehicle functions. For those with the 1994-1995 models, the OBD II software coding was not fully implemented and as a result, your options for performance software improvements are limited, more on that in another article. If you would like to know more about the various flash tuners available in the marketplace... check out the September 2007 edition of Mustang Enthisiast magazine. Check out the Mustang Enthusiast website. The horsepower and torque specifications are SAE flywheel ratings. The dyno numbers posted on this site are SAE rear wheel horsepower (RWHP) ratings. Keep that in mind when reviewing this list of factory specifications. Year -------- SAE.HP @ xxxxRPM ------ SAE.Torque @ xxxxRPM 1994 -------- 145.HP @ 4000RPM ------- 215.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 1995 -------- 145.HP @ 4000RPM ------- 215.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 1996 -------- 150.HP @ 4000RPM ------- 215.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 1997 -------- 150.HP @ 4000RPM ------- 215.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 1998 -------- 150.HP @ 4000RPM ------- 215.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 1999 -------- 190.HP @ 5250RPM ------- 220.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM **99-04 engines were upgraded with a split port manifold design. 2000 -------- 190.HP @ 5250RPM ------- 220.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 2001 -------- 190.HP @ 5250RPM ------- 220.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 2002 -------- 193.HP @ 5250RPM ------- 225.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 2003 -------- 193.HP @ 5250RPM ------- 225.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM 2004 -------- 193.HP @ 5250RPM ------- 225.Ft/lbs @ 2750RPM **04 engines are 3.9L displacement. More 3.9L information is available on the Engine & Drivetrain page. Displacement: 1994-2003 3802(cc) or if you like 3.8L Bore x Stroke: 1994-1998 3.81x3.39(in) * 1999-2003 3.80x3.40(in) * 2004 3.80x3.46(in). Compression Ratio: 1994-1998 9.0:1 * 1999-2004 9.3:1. Your 3.8L/3.9L V6 (with stock compression ratio & stock ignition timing curves) was designed by Ford Motor Company to run on 87 Octane fuel. Using a higher octane rating is just a waste of money. The 2004 3.9L V6 have the same bore as the 3.8L, increased displacement was due to a slightly longer connecting rod that increased the piston stroke. In case you were wondering... 3.8L = 232 cubic inches. A more detailed discussion of the 3.8L vs 3.9L differences is available on the Engine & Drivetrain page. !----> Increase your V6 engine horse power output rating with performance parts from our Engine & Drivetrain and Fuel & Air product pages, check it out! The rule of thumb that "if it works on a GT then it should work on a V6" does not always apply. For example the front end of the V6 is considerably lighter than a GT, therefore you should always look for suspension springs that are rated for a V6 (even though Ford installed the same spring rate front and rear in both the Coupe & GT), could that be the reason why the Coupe sits slightly higher in the front and is a little stiffer than a GT?. The proper spring rate will be lower for the V6 Mustang. We offer V6 rated springs and other products on our Suspension & Wheels page, check it out! 
If you are trying to improve the cornering ability of your Mustang, this is definitely NOT
the way to do it. I saw this Mustang with a set of "20s" on my recent trip to Pensacola. Notice that the vehicle sits a little more than one inch higher than stock! It is useful to know what type of transmission (auto or manual), differential size & rear end gear ratio Ford installed at the factory. The automatic transmission requires 27Hp(25-30Hp) to operate and the T-5 manual transmission requires about 9Hp. This is known as parasitic loss. Knowing that little factoid will allow you to calculate the approximate flywheel rating based on RWHP numbers. Year -------- Auto / Manual --- Differential & Gear Ratio 1994 -------- AOD-E / T5 ------- 7.5" & 2.73 Ring & Pinion 1995 -------- AOD-E / T5 ------- 7.5" & 2.73 Ring & Pinion 1996 -------- AOD-E / T5 ------- 7.5" & 2.73 Ring & Pinion 1997 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------- 7.5" & 2.73 Ring & Pinion I am told that some 1997 Coupes were produced with the AOD-E transmission, the Ford Service Manual references the 4R70W only. 1998 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------- 7.5" & 2.73 Ring & Pinion 1999 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------ 7.5" & 3.27 Ring & Pinion 2000 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------ 7.5" & 3.27 Ring & Pinion 2001 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------ 7.5" & 3.27 Ring & Pinion 2002 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------ 7.5" & 3.27 Ring & Pinion 2003 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------ 7.5" & 3.27 Ring & Pinion 2004 -------- 4R70W / T5 ------ 7.5" & 3.27 Ring & Pinion The T-5 transmission was built by Borg-Warner and the T-45 transmission was built by Tremec under license from Borg-Warner and used on the V8 Mustangs. The T-5 showed up on the Mustang in the 1983 model year as well as the 3.8L V6, rated at a whopping 112Hp! !---->Automatic and Manual transmission performance parts are available on our Engine & Drivetrain page. Check it out! The following is a list of Curb Weights for various flavors of V6 Mustangs listed by year. ***** Coupe-Auto Coupe-Manual Conv-Auto Conv-Manual *** 1994 3124 ---------- 3065 --------------- 3302 --------- 3245 1995 3124 ---------- 3077 --------------- 3304 --------- 3257 1996 3157 ---------- 3068 --------------- 3349 --------- 3263 1997 3154 ---------- 3071 --------------- 3300 --------- 3216 1998 3124 ---------- 3065 --------------- 3302 --------- 3216 1999 3124 ---------- 3064 --------------- 3264 --------- 3203 2000 3127 ---------- 3066 --------------- 3268 --------- 3208 2001 3175 ---------- 3114 --------------- 3315 --------- 3254 2002 3175 ---------- 3114 --------------- 3315 --------- 3254 2003 3175 ---------- 3114 --------------- 3315 --------- 3254 2004 No Data ----- 3290 --------------- No Data ---- No Data Now that you know what your Mustang weighed at the time it was built, you can take it to a public scale and weigh it to find out what the running weight is (and it will probably be higher than listed above). Why is this important? Because you now have a basis to work from in terms of performance. Huh? Yes, that's right. Suppose you "install" a rear seat delete kit, most remove about 30-35 lbs of weight. That's roughly equivalent to a 2-3 horsepower increase. Keeping track of your weight (your Mustang's weight) will help you understand what is happening when you complete a mod such as adding subframe connectors or a rear seat delete. It all matters. Here is a good example of why knowing weights and horsepower ratings are useful: the 1998 V6 3.8L Coupe weighs in at 3065 lbs with 150 hp, a weight to power ratio of 20.43:1. The 1998 V8 4.6L/2V GT weighs in at 3227 lbs with 225 hp, a weight to power ratio of 14.34:1. It would take a 63 hp increase or a 914 lbs decrease to match the weight to power ratio of the stock GT. Remember that this is the SAE flywheel rating not the RWHP rating. Either increase horsepower or decrease weight to match performance specifications. What is a "Grade 8" bolt? How much torque does a given nut need? Find out here>>> ZeroFast.com No you are not going crazy, your Mustang has both Metric and Standard sized hardware! Speaking of torque values, if the shop manual specifies a torque range of say 73-97 lb-ft. Split the difference, in this case it is 85, and set the torque at that value. You can never go wrong using this simple procedure. Fix things as you go... If you discover something that is broken or out of shape, fix it as soon as you can before it becomes a bigger, more expensive problem. If you are one of those folks that has already accumulated a large list of things to fix, no need to worry, just make a list of all the things that need attention and set it aside for 24 hours. Pick up the list the next day, select the simplest problem and fix it. Now scratch that problem off your list and pick the next simplest problem and fix that one, before you know it, all your problems will be gone, time and money not withstanding. Do one side at a time. Let's say you are working on the front suspension and you need to compress and remove the coil springs to replace the upper and lower spring isolators. Dismantle only one side at a time, that way you will have a fully assembled example to reference during reassembly. Even if you have a shop manual, this is a useful technique. Another useful technique is to take disassembly photos with a digital camera for reference at a later date and time. My Philosophy on Purchasing Shop Tools... My father taught me to buy the best tools I could afford at the time. So I started out with a basic set of Craftsman (TM) wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers and added a piece here, a piece there when I needed it. I don't have any tools in my shop that I have never used. I don't purchase those 1,100 piece tool sets from the Big Box stores for $179.99 and find that half the stuff is not usable on a car, boat or stove and the other half is just plain crap. So if you need a 1/4" drift punch for a project, buy the best 1/4" drift punch you can afford, it will last you a life time. By the way, I have no particular love for any particular brand of tools. I buy Snap-On, Craftsman, Mac Tools, etc. Buy the best that is available at the time. Life is too short to use crappy tools. New from CHiP'S V6 Specialties. Announcing the Fenderwell Sound Plug(TM)for 1994-2004 model Mustangs. Fender well mounted Cold Air Induction (CAI) systems are awesome! I like my CAI, but I don't like the excessive sound of the intake air whistling by the throttle plate, so I invented a device to tame the noise without losing the tone of the CAI at work. Order from the Fuel & Air page. 
The photo on the left shows the approximate position inside the fenderwell. The photo on the right shows the FSP inside the fender well. Time to flush that dirty air filter! Tail pipes vs. Pro Dumps : this is a question I am asked about a lot. Which is better; full length exhaust with tail pipes or "Pro Dumps"? The answer depends to a great degree on what you are trying to accomplish. To start with, you must answer the question: are pro dumps street legal in my state? Often times they are not in order to limit the amount of exhaust gas that enters the passenger compartment. If they are legal, then you have to decide whether you want all the noise and vibration that is part and parcel of exhausting gas down on the roadway and having the sound waves bounce back up against the bottom of the passenger compartment. It can be very annoying; I know I've done it. Personally I believe full length exhaust with tail pipes is the way to go on the street. There really is not much to be gained from a performance standpoint by using dumps on your street machine. I hope that answers the question. One final note about the exhaust system on our Laser Red Mustang. You will see it in various configurations (with tail pipes, with out tail pipes, cut off at the mufflers, etc.) in photos throughout this website. I am continually trying different set ups and reporting the results. Sorry for the confusing photos. Fenderwell Cold Air Induction: Is it really cold air? No, but it is colder air than what is available in the engine compartment. Let me explain. When I was developing the Fenderwell Sound Plug, I put temperature probes in the engine compartment and the right front fender well to get an idea of what type of peak temperatures I would be dealing with. Even on the hottest summer day in Texas, the fender well temperature never exceeded 124o F and was normally below 110o F. The engine compartment was almost always over 195o F. So as you can well imagine, taking the intake air from the fender well will result in a colder & denser air charge than what is available in the engine compartment. There is a great show that runs on the SPEED Channel called "Two Guys Garage", co-hosted by Dave Bowman and Sam Memmolo tackle car projects with an emphasis on building performance machines. They walk through various shop construction projects, automotive upgrades and new product features. 
Hey! Does your 3.8/3.9L V6 Mustang engine act sluggish, tired, no acceleration? Does it sometimes cough
and sputter? It does? OK, when was the last time you changed your fuel filter... hmmmmmmmmmm? Just as I thought! Do you even know were the fuel filter is located? No, not under the hood, it's behind the rear axle and just forward of the fuel tank. It has an inlet hose, an outlet hose, and a non-reusable clamp (supplied with the fuel filter) on each hose end, and a clamp that holds the fuel filter in place. This is an easy project that will perk up your 'Stang'. <------ You can see it there, in the upper left hand corner of this photo. 
Lazer Red 2000 Area... Currently under construction, please pardon our dust.
Completed Mods on Lazer Red 2000. Our "new" 2000 3.8L V6 Mustang "Road Warrior".
These articles are not intended to be step by step installation guides, rather they are intended to give you a basic walk through of the project, do's and don'ts and fill in some of the gaps in the manufacturer's instructions, when needed. Please Note: Some of these articles take a while to load if you are using a dial up service. Photos and modification articles are on the way. Check back here soon...
Customer Rides Area... Currently under construction, please pardon our dust.
<<<<<<< Customer Rides >>>>>>> 
This is our CHiP'S V6 friend Kyle Person and his sweeeeeeet V6 Mustang. |
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